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I moved to a resort town in the Italian Alps 8 years ago. Living here has perks, but it’s no vacation.

When people ask why I settled in the Aosta Valley, they often assume I fell in love with a local or that I’m a ski bum. What actually happened was I fell in love with the region.

I first discovered Courmayeur, my new hometown, in 2018. I had just turned 40, my marriage had ended, and I’d left my job in Edinburgh.

Unmoored, exhausted, and heartbroken, I knew I needed to step outside my comfort zone. An Italian road trip with my rescue dog, Annie, felt like the perfect way to shake things up.

My mom joined us for the first leg. An avid hiker, she suggested we stop for lunch in her favorite mountain town in the Italian Alps. As much as I loved the relaxed, authentic vibe, I never imagined that eight years later, I’d be living here year-round.

Every time I returned to Courmayeur, it felt like coming home


The writer standing in a creek in the summertime.

I ended up staying in Courmayeur longer than I expected. 

Gemma Johnstone



I spent the rest of my road trip exploring Italy, then headed back up north and spontaneously stopped in Courmayeur again for a quick visit.

A few days turned into two weeks — and then turned into a few months, after I found a short-term, low-season rental and decided to stick around. Then, I extended my three-month lease to a yearlong one.

The peace, blue skies, and stunning scenery kept me here. I loved that, within minutes of stepping outside on a daily dog walk, I could be immersed in secluded nature with breathtaking views.

Plus, despite being surrounded by tranquil trails, the town is conveniently well-connected. It’s just a few hours away from Milan, Turin, and Geneva, making it easy for my much-missed friends and family to visit and for me to explore other parts of Europe.

Almost a year into my stay in Courmayeur, I took a short trip back to Scotland. I still wasn’t sure where I wanted to settle down long-term.

However, when I drove back into Courmayeur, I immediately felt such an overwhelming sense of being home that I began the process of securing residency.

Italian Alpine life comes with challenges no one posts about


The writer and her dog sitting on a rock in the mountains, overlooking a town.

Living in the Alps is very different from visiting. 

Gemma Johnstone



During that first year, I realized that living in this picture-postcard Alpine resort year-round is very different from vacationing here.

Courmayeur’s population, which is typically around 3,000, swells significantly during the peak ski and summer seasons, and living in a tourist destination has its downsides. I don’t love the traffic-clogging narrow lanes, and the scarcity and high cost of apartment rentals.

During the low season, the town feels deserted. Suddenly, there are swaths of shuttered second-home chalets and closed restaurants. It’s a change of pace that I appreciate, but for those who thrive in a bustling environment, it could feel jarring.

Then there’s the language barrier. My Italian has been embarrassingly slow to improve, and even basic interactions felt intimidating to begin with.

Locals were always polite and helpful — and many working in the tourism industry speak English — but I understandably had to prove myself before I was fully embraced by the close-knit mountain community.

The cost of living is also a consideration; my winter energy bills, for instance, are much higher than I was used to in Scotland. I’m lucky to work from home, but I know seasonal workers who have struggled with long hours, limited days off, and low pay.

Living here is still so worth it for me


The writer and her dog sitting in the snow, looking out at a snow-capped mountain in the Alps.

Courmayeur isn’t perfect, but it was exactly what I needed. 

Gemma Johnstone



Despite the challenges, I don’t regret my decision to stay in Courmayeur.

Living here has confirmed how much I value nature, community, and calmness over status or city life. Moving doesn’t solve every problem, of course, but the right place gave me the space I needed to work through mine.

I find it grounding to live where the seasons dictate the rhythm of life. Of course, there’s skiing in the winter, but in the spring and fall, I help my neighbors with potato and apple harvests. In the summer, I hike to mountain refuges and swim in glacial lakes.

My community here is a mix of lifelong locals and a few expats, and they’ve all expanded my worldview. I admire the dedication and passion of hotel workers, lift operators, and mountain guides, and I love watching burned-out city slickers rediscover their joy for life here.

I’ve learned that life in the mountains of Italy can bring gorgeous nature, a slower pace, and a great community. However, it also requires a pile of patience, flexibility, and honesty about your reasons for moving here. I’ve seen people relocate here — and leave — when their expectations didn’t match the reality.

For me, though, staying in Courmayeur was just what I needed. Life here isn’t perfect, but every time I step onto a mountain trail above the village with my dog, I feel a steady, uncomplicated contentment.




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12 perks of being a Supreme Court justice

Financial disclosure laws apply to justices, but with some caveats. All federal employees (including judges) have to disclose “income, dividends, most capital gains, significant debts, the purchase or sale of land, and gifts, among other things,” per the Brennan Center.

However, Supreme Court justices aren’t beholden to the code of conduct for other federal judges, the “Judicial Conference’s interpretations of the ethics law.”

In 1991, the justices agreed to follow these lower-court rules, but it was voluntary. Then, in 2023, the Court adopted its own formal Code of Conduct for Justices, but it did not include a mechanism for enforcement.

This means it’s a bit of a legal gray area if they don’t follow the code. On occasion, justices have been called out for being less than forthcoming with gifts and perks they receive.

For example, in 2024, Justice Clarence Thomas faced ethics questions for failing to disclose luxury trips funded by billionaire GOP donor Harlan Crow, including travel on his private jet.

In response, Thomas said he thought he didn’t need to report the trips because he believed they were considered “personal hospitality” as he was friends with Crow. He later said he would comply with newer, stricter guidelines about personal hospitality.

He’s not the only one who’s received perks. In 2024, Justice Ketanji Brown Jackson received Beyoncé tickets worth almost $4,000. Jackson reported the tickets in her financial disclosure form.




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After spending 150 days on Princess Cruises, I earned Elite status. These 4 perks have completely elevated my experience.

Even after working on cruise ships for years, I love this form of travel. And although I’ve sailed with many cruise lines over the years, Princess stands out for its beautiful ships and interesting itineraries.

Just like airlines, most major cruise lines offer loyalty programs, and on every sailing, guests earn credit toward their status.

Although chasing status is never my goal, I gained the highest level — known as Elite — on Princess Cruises’ Captain’s Circle program, after spending 150 days at sea over three years.

Here are five Elite status perks that have completely elevated my sailing experience.

Priority access to water shuttles means more time spent at our destinations


A person holds a priority water shuttle ticket for Elite guests.

I love not having to wait for a water shuttle.

Tammy Barr



Some ports have small or shallow harbors that require cruise ships to anchor offshore and use smaller boats (known as tenders or water shuttles) to take guests ashore.

It’s often a confusing and irking part of the cruising experience because it takes time to load and maneuver these small boats to the pier, which can result in guests waiting hours to go ashore.

Luckily, as an Elite member, I now receive priority access to these water shuttles. My last cruise had three ports where a water shuttle was required to go ashore, and this benefit alone saved me from waiting and worrying about how long it would take to leave the ship.

In the past, I’ve woken up very early and waited in long lines for water shuttle tickets. I’ve also had my independent port plans ruined because of slow tender operations.

With Elite status, though, I’m able to take my entire family on the first tender of the day without having to set an early alarm.

I also have access to complimentary laundry services


Slips of paper and a paper bag on a bed.

As an Elite member, I can have my clothes washed and folded for free.

Tammy Barr



On Princess ships, passengers can pay to access self-service laundromats, as well as full-service laundry and dry cleaning. As an Elite passenger, however, I can send out my dirty laundry and have it washed and folded for free.

This means I no longer have to spend time doing laundry on vacation. Instead, I put my clothes in a bag, and they return clean and folded within a day or two.

I like to use the service for things like socks and underwear, and it’s nice to know I can pack less for long cruises.

Internet access is offered at half price

Although I try my best to disconnect when I’m on vacation, I typically purchase a WiFi package to check in with family members and friends back home.

WiFi is included in some bundled packages, but can also be purchased separately. Luckily, as an Elite member, I receive 50% off all WiFi packages.

There are opportunities for free and discounted food and drinks


An alcoholic beverage and hors d'oeuvres on a table.

I love enjoying free drinks and hors d’oeuvres.

Tammy Barr



One of my favorite parts about being an Elite member is that I get access to discounted food and drinks. For example, certain suites on Princess cruises come with a one-time mini bar, but as an Elite member, this is a perk I get to enjoy on every sailing.

My room comes stocked with 10 alcoholic and 10 non-alcoholic drinks, which include a mix of liquor, beer, soda, and sparkling water. With the price of alcoholic drink packages now up to about $100 per day for each guest, I think this perk provides a good value.

On one formal night each cruise, Elite loyalty members are also invited to the Captain’s Circle party, which includes live music, complimentary drinks, and hors d’oeuvres.

Plus, on formal night, I have the opportunity to order and enjoy delicious hors d’oeuvres while getting ready. I’ve enjoyed small plate options like seared tuna, salmon, and beef — all paired with the mini-bar drinks to create a fun happy hour vibe in my cabin.

I save a lot of money by taking advantage of the various hosted food and drink events on board. In fact, I don’t even purchase a drink package anymore.




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